Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Audio and Video Talk
Acoustics & Room Treatment
Sound Proofing a Door
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support AVForums:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Timber_MG" data-source="post: 810333" data-attributes="member: 18"><p>Assuming the plan is to seal off the door, I would look into drywall track & stud and affix it in a manner to be approved by landlord. If you are absolutely forbidden from montage adhesives and screw fasteners, you can build a frame (timber or light steel frame), fill the cavity with a suitable absorber and don't link the two wall layers (meaning don't have studs affix both inner and outer barriers. The whole frame would then be gasketed and press fit into position on two foam seals. If you are looking to do this on the cheap, even without the infill it can work well and the attenuation is largely dependent on the seal and the air gap thickness. I would start with a 63mm or greater floor track for the outer frame and use 51mm studs staggered as to not couple inner and outer "wall".</p><p></p><p>For a temporary and cheap relief you can focus on sealing any gaps with sealing tape and close off the door gaps. The more isolation you achieve, the more important the sealing becomes.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Timber_MG, post: 810333, member: 18"] Assuming the plan is to seal off the door, I would look into drywall track & stud and affix it in a manner to be approved by landlord. If you are absolutely forbidden from montage adhesives and screw fasteners, you can build a frame (timber or light steel frame), fill the cavity with a suitable absorber and don't link the two wall layers (meaning don't have studs affix both inner and outer barriers. The whole frame would then be gasketed and press fit into position on two foam seals. If you are looking to do this on the cheap, even without the infill it can work well and the attenuation is largely dependent on the seal and the air gap thickness. I would start with a 63mm or greater floor track for the outer frame and use 51mm studs staggered as to not couple inner and outer "wall". For a temporary and cheap relief you can focus on sealing any gaps with sealing tape and close off the door gaps. The more isolation you achieve, the more important the sealing becomes. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Audio and Video Talk
Acoustics & Room Treatment
Sound Proofing a Door
Top