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Centre tap transformer question
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<blockquote data-quote="fdlsys" data-source="post: 451777" data-attributes="member: 2310"><p>35-50A bridge rectifiers are reliable and cheap as chips. You only need one. </p><p>If the amp is class-A, cool the bridge well on it's own heatsink or the bottom of the enclosure. </p><p>If it's class-AB, it won't break a sweat.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/40v-dual-power-supply.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The only difference from dual bridges is that the centre tap has to play the 0-volt ("Ground") role. </p><p>However, 0-volt should not be at Earth potential (as it is above) or even connected to Earth. (No chance of ground loops between pieces of equipment)</p><p>Look at old(er) Japanese and US made amps - two wire AC cable. A slow-blow properly rated fuse on each side of the secondary before the bridge and you're good to go. I don't think placing the fuses on the DC side (as above) is good enough, it won't protect the transformer from collapsed bridge. Keep in mind - no 0-volt or any other electrical connections to the chassis. (chassis is potential neutral) </p><p></p><p>If you want (or need) to have the 0-volt connected to the chassis, I think that electrical compliance/safety requires the chassis to be Earthed. In that case connect the 0-volt via a 10ohm resistor or (even better) NTC resistor to the AC Earth wire.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fdlsys, post: 451777, member: 2310"] 35-50A bridge rectifiers are reliable and cheap as chips. You only need one. If the amp is class-A, cool the bridge well on it's own heatsink or the bottom of the enclosure. If it's class-AB, it won't break a sweat. [IMG]http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/40v-dual-power-supply.jpg[/IMG] The only difference from dual bridges is that the centre tap has to play the 0-volt ("Ground") role. However, 0-volt should not be at Earth potential (as it is above) or even connected to Earth. (No chance of ground loops between pieces of equipment) Look at old(er) Japanese and US made amps - two wire AC cable. A slow-blow properly rated fuse on each side of the secondary before the bridge and you're good to go. I don't think placing the fuses on the DC side (as above) is good enough, it won't protect the transformer from collapsed bridge. Keep in mind - no 0-volt or any other electrical connections to the chassis. (chassis is potential neutral) If you want (or need) to have the 0-volt connected to the chassis, I think that electrical compliance/safety requires the chassis to be Earthed. In that case connect the 0-volt via a 10ohm resistor or (even better) NTC resistor to the AC Earth wire. [/QUOTE]
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Centre tap transformer question
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