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Audio and Video Talk
General Discussion
Advice - Car audio
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<blockquote data-quote="thenoizeguy" data-source="post: 865776" data-attributes="member: 14345"><p>I would run a separate power cable for the amp and fuse it as close to the battery as you can. The earth cable can be the same gauge as the power. keep it short and earth the amp close to where its mounted. Don't forget to run the remote turn on cable from your deck.</p><p></p><p>Start wiring for your sub ;D</p><p>All the bass is going to be lost to road noise.</p><p>That's why a lot of powered subs have a remote level control, because there is a vast difference between static and 120+. You will want to be able to adjust the bass for those differences.</p><p></p><p>I'm actually in the same process as you at the moment. I'm transferring my system from my Nissan Dcab to my Forester. I'm going to have to go for the underseat sub because I bought the car for its load space and a box would be in the way. </p><p></p><p>Good luck</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thenoizeguy, post: 865776, member: 14345"] I would run a separate power cable for the amp and fuse it as close to the battery as you can. The earth cable can be the same gauge as the power. keep it short and earth the amp close to where its mounted. Don't forget to run the remote turn on cable from your deck. Start wiring for your sub ;D All the bass is going to be lost to road noise. That's why a lot of powered subs have a remote level control, because there is a vast difference between static and 120+. You will want to be able to adjust the bass for those differences. I'm actually in the same process as you at the moment. I'm transferring my system from my Nissan Dcab to my Forester. I'm going to have to go for the underseat sub because I bought the car for its load space and a box would be in the way. Good luck [/QUOTE]
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Audio and Video Talk
General Discussion
Advice - Car audio
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