Recent content by Norval

Sorry I misunerstood, i thought the 110Hz crosover frequesncy refers to an output on the amp. Since the mid and high are covered by a full range there would be no need to add any additional x-over. 100Hz seems Low for a 8cm driver though, but not impossible.

The separate output on the amp is to drive a sub-woofer below 110Hz. it will blow th tweeter if you send 110Hz upwards towards it. Unless the bookshelves already have tweeters build in. Maybe give us more info on the bookshelves you want to use.

I was chocked to read this very sad news of FB this morning. Still can't believe it.  :'(

Thank you all for your comments, Philip (Billybawb) sorted me out, I just need to pick it up. Strangely enough, when someone ask for speaker advice, I often thinks the person asking might end up more confused than before. There is not a single comment here that was not helpful.

Last year my son needed to glue some rubber washers together, and then to a metal washer. Same issue, contact didn't stick, neither did silicon which I was certain would work. After a bit of googling, it turned out superglue was the anwer. I guess on a larger surface it might not be a solution...

Thanks guys. The comments already narrow things down for me in terms of what to look for. I also spoke to BillyBawb, and it seems he might just be able to sort me out. Also received very good information from him.  

Just before I go out and buy, let me ask the computer geeks their opinion: I'm looking at something that will last me a while. It will be used as a general laptop for office work, but also one or two CAD programs, and the occasional photo and video editing. Budget is obviously not unlimited...

Option 1. Have a look at Harbeth (not all models, but many). Mount the woofer from behind and the tweeter flush from the front. The downside is the slight time alignment with the tweeter now mounted slightly forward in comparison with the woofer, but you can either just live with it, or...

In woodworking mostly referred to as a rabbet. Sorry slight spelling error in my original post though. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabbet

Aven, Based on the first two replies I'm going to assume you meant: recess = cutting a rabbet so that the driver sinks in and the frame is flush with the baffle = I will therefore refer to this as flush mount flush mount = no rabbet with the front of the driver frame not flush with the baffle =...

Me seeing this: "BS, Afrikaans oukies don't talk like that" Then Naas Botha starts talking on Supersport [emoji850] Sent from my SM-A305F using Tapatalk

Depends if he has any specific design or idea in mind. But may builds in the past was based on either Seas or Philips drivers. Many options for Kef as well. Does he want to base it on a kit, or more of a vintage look with vintage drivers? 2-way or 3 way? My suggestion is to look what drivers...

But those who can truly think for themselves will understand why laws and rules are essential. NB

I had a similar problem with an amp many years ago. IIRC I have replaced all the power transistors, but the amp started getting noisy on one channel when getting hot. For some reason I decided to re-solder all the emitter resistors, and that was the end of the problem.

Watts is the result of Ampere and Volts, and Ampere will be the result of Volts divided by Impedance, so they are all interconnected. Low Watts at high current is thus only possible if you have very low impedance or as part of marketing IMO.