Advice on portable table saws

[JimGore]

Here are some pics of the tablesaw:

[ByronH]

Ah, there it is, thanks Ian

I was checking out the Bosch 4100 but it seems to be obsolete, and the GTS 10 its replacement. What is your opinion on the precision of this saw?

[JimGore]

The precision is good enough for the things I do with it.  It doesn't have any vernier adjustments however if that's important to you.

The thing about a (good) table saw is that you don't just plug it in and start using it - you need to set it up first.  Call it "calibrating".  I do this once a year - make sure the blade is still square with the fence, etc.  All my big machines are this way - the thicknesser  / planer, the band saw, table saw, and the lathe all allow you to make these adjustments if needed.

Regards,
Ian.

[ByronH]

Thanks for the feedback Ian. As far as precision is concerned, I don't need vernier type precision (although I certainly wouldn't mind!) but I do expect repeatable accurate cuts after a couple minutes worth of setup/checkup. With my current rig I have to go through the entire calibration exercise each and every time I want to cut something and this adds at least 30-40mins to the task at hand.

So far this looks like a good option; I'll shop around for some prices and see what happens

Thanks again for all the inputs guys, much appreciated

[Timber_MG]

I have often thought about using a cheap table saw (like the Ryobis at Makro) and replacing the fence with some very strong aluminium extrusions fixed at both ends with reference marks machined into the work table for quick setup with a vernier caliper after some work on initial setup. I plan to cut a couple of miters this year, so it might be a worth-while addition to my small but growing tool collection.

Are the Ryobi tables workable with an improved fence for light occasional use (mostly miter cutting and occasionally ripping) or are they a waste of time?

[JimGore]

Hi Martin,

A cheaper table saw is still a table saw.  If you can make a guide rail that clamps square on both ends of the table, it should be fine.  You would obviously still need to check the angles, etc before you cut however.

The more expensive machines just have stronger and better motors, better bearings, better beds, etc, etc.  In the end the saw's job is to saw and a cheaper machine with some customized bits would perform as well as an expensive one.  You are not planning to run the machine 12 hours a day either, so go for it.

Regards,
Ian.

[chipwelder]

No wonder I very rarely get repeatable accuracy to less than a mm... I know none of this stuff!!!

Need a better blade on my cheapy though it shudders as it powers down... or hits a rough spot...

[JimGore]

Your shudder could be caused by one of 3 things:

1.  The blade is not balanced.  Cure - get a new blade.  Try get a Bosch or Makita - very nice blades & last long.
2.  There is some play in the motor spindle. Cure ; check bearings and bushes.  Also check for wear on the spindle itself.
3.  Some retaining bolts and / or screws have worked loose.  Cure - check and re-fasten all bolts and screws.

Regards,
Ian.

[Timber_MG]

Thanks Ian. Does the saw arbour shift with use relative to the table requiring fresh setup every time ?

The next question, is what is available off the shelf to cross-cut?

[JimGore]

Hi Martin,

On a cheaper machine you may have some play on the arbor (spindle).  This is easily corrected if you are able to machine some basic parts, or change out the bearings, etc.  Even on a cheap machine this should be very little tho - not even 1 mm.

What width do you want to cross cut?  You can do any width on the table saw, but if you want something more suitable then a compound mitre saw does the job quite nicely, although it has a limit on the width.

Ian.

[Timber_MG]

I want to cross cut planks with a miter to allow me to join panels at different angles (not just 45 becasue a router works well for that). The compound mitre saws are nice for smaller planks (for instance making timber frames like you were doing for your bass traps) but i'd like to cut panels up to 600mm long (and 200mm for one of my next projects which will have many different angles)

I'll ask the sales staff at makro to turn one on its belly and decide whether the arbour is stable enough for my liking.

[JimGore]

Table saw is your best bet in that case.  Sliding compound mitre saws are great, but extremely pricey.

You won't be able to see much from under the table saw - most units have a grille or perforated steel panel underneath.  Best bet is to feel the blade from the top - be sure the machine is unplugged however!

Crank the blade up so it is at maximum height, then check for play.

Ian.

[Crustyy]

A Makita for sale in junkmail as the one you posted first:
http://www.junkmail.co.za/v-johannesburg-outdoors-diy-machinery-tools-makita-tablesaw-5-months-old-hasnt-QZQYCatQX0311QYRgnQX0001QYAdQXF41251QYEdQX201107