Seas Maya Project

[alternativeroute]

So. I ditched one project (unworkable until I am better equipped and more experienced at xover design) and bought into a proven design...

This ad was posted: http://www.avforums.co.za/index.php?topic=4760.0;imode

I took the speakers...

Now. This is sloooooowwwwww project as I am very busy with work for the moment and will be until early next year...

Pictures: Sorry not too good.


Seas Maya Carcass Front by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Bare Carcass Back by arclients, on Flickr

Lots of this project stems from materials I had lying around that needed to be used... If it was a scratch thing i would of chosen different materials...

I made the bare carcass from a mix of 15mm and 18mm plywood... The commercial variant.


Seas Maya Front Baffles by arclients, on Flickr

Why Oak? 

A comedy of first this then that's... I picked some dirt cheap second hand speaker stands from Cash Convertors... Took them home and never thought about it... One day I sand them down and behold below the layers of gunk is Oak... So for my now defunct stand mount project I decide to finish them in Oak...


Seas Maya Port Fittings by arclients, on Flickr

These are for the ports... Once the boxes are done and the port is glued in I will trim the holes to the right size and then round over the edges...


Seas Maya Alu Ports by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Clamping by arclients, on Flickr

To make life easier I got Veneercraft to bond the veneer onto 6mm MDF. I then glued the panels to the boxes...


Seas Maya Veneer cladding added by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Port Fitting by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Port Fitting Added by arclients, on Flickr

Still loads to be done...

[stereo247]

NICE!!! Keep us updated.

[Shonver]

Nice going there, Jacques!

To make life easier I got Veneercraft to bond the veneer onto 6mm MDF. I then glued the panels to the boxes...

Sounds like a plan... I still get veneer nightmares.

[JimGore]

Very tidy woodworking there JQ.

Looking good!

[alternativeroute]

Very tidy woodworking there JQ.

Looking good!

Thanks Ian, the Festool saw that I got has been an excellent edition to my armoury of tools...

Nice going there, Jacques!

Sounds like a plan... I still get veneer nightmares.

It works out a little more expensive but saves a whole lotta other stress...

Base Ideas...

I am still not sure how I am going to do the bottom...

What I do know is that a 'plinth' is going to be bolted onto the bottom....


Seas Maya Bottom by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Plinth Idea by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Plinth idea by arclients, on Flickr

This is my idea for now... I am going to bolt on the oak base with the stainless steel circles that will be tapped to take some of Ian's awesome spikes... http://www.avforums.co.za/index.php/topic,4736.msg65810.html#msg65810

What I do not know is how and where I am going to do the xover bit... I posted here: http://www.avforums.co.za/index.php/topic,6702.0.html with an idea

I have two options really.

• 1. Put the xover in the bottom
• 2. Fill the bottom with sand and externalise the xovers as suggested in this thread: http://www.avforums.co.za/index.php/topic,6702.0.html

I am utilising Ian's Xover building services 

btw. the stainless steel discs came from Mervin - http://www.avforums.co.za/index.php?topic=6060.0


Port Tube cutting

The port tube needs to be cut to length and then epoxied into my fitting...


Seas Maya Inner Port Fitting by arclients, on Flickr

Does anyone have any ideas on how to cut the port straight and square?

[JimGore]

To cut a pipe straight and square, I do the following:

1.  Make pencil marks all the way around the tube where you want to saw.
2.  Clamp a piece of offcut wood in your vice so it sticks out about 40cm to one side (horizontal)
3.  Place your tube over this piece of wood
4.  With your hacksaw, saw on your mark while slowly turning the tube with your free hand as you saw.  Don't try to saw right through, but gradually deeper as you turn the tube.
5.  Keep turning and sawing until you have gone all the way through.

Regards,
Ian.

[Stefan]

Does anyone have any ideas on how to cut the port straight and square?

Mitre box.

[NoSnipeLimit]

Mitre box.

something must be wrong with my Mitre box It becomes difficult with big pipes, and it's not 100% accurate.

Depending on the material you can use a table saw, with a guide rail, but you'll need it clamped well to the guide rail.

[JimGore]

The pipe JQ wants to saw is about 75mm diameter, and is flanged on one end.  Mitre box and table saw both won't be able to cut it square because of the flange, but also won't reach because of the size.

Ian.

[Stefan]

True, I remember it didn't work too lekka with 65mm pipes. I made my own box from MDF to cut bigger diameters.

[Byrd]

Hey Jacques.

Looking good. Will it be ready in time for the next get together ?

Angela says - "just no red" Don't know what is up with these chicks - no sense of style.

I was able to cut my ports which were also about the some diameter with a router mounted on a table. I mounted a fence and a stop on the one side and then rotated the pipe for the cut. Came out very well, but the material was PVC. I have cut Alum on a router before though and it wasn't so bad and I think with the wall thickness that port doesnt seem to bad.
The above method could also be used for a table saw cut, passing it through multiple times with a stop on the other side, ensuring that you are always cutting the same length.

The problem of working with the flange on a flat surface can be solved by fitting a lifting board under the non flanged area so that it lifts it off the table and the port lies square.

If you are doing lots of ports, it can be usefull to setup something like that, otherwise, the method JG suggested requires less setup time.

[alternativeroute]

Thanks for the inputs guys...

Mitre box.

urg  . Tried that one a few times and the saw always goes skew about 75% through the cut... could be bad technique on my part... 

something must be wrong with my Mitre box It becomes difficult with big pipes, and it's not 100% accurate.

Depending on the material you can use a table saw, with a guide rail, but you'll need it clamped well to the guide rail.

Did think of that... Would have to get a different blade though. I cannot imagine a wood rip blade being too good...

Hey Jacques.

Looking good. Will it be ready in time for the next get together ?

Angela says - "just no red" Don't know what is up with these chicks - no sense of style.

Me-thinks the ladies were conspiring... I think that can be the problem bringing the decorator halves to these do's - they get to brood and conspire.. 

Should be done by Jan 2011... I am not in too much of a rush... depends on the finish also... That always takes looooooong.

To cut a pipe straight and square, I do the following:

1.  Make pencil marks all the way around the tube where you want to saw.
2.  Clamp a piece of offcut wood in your vice so it sticks out about 40cm to one side (horizontal)
3.  Place your tube over this piece of wood
4.  With your hacksaw, saw on your mark while slowly turning the tube with your free hand as you saw.  Don't try to saw right through, but gradually deeper as you turn the tube.
5.  Keep turning and sawing until you have gone all the way through.

Regards,
Ian.

Thanks Ian, I tried a variation on your methodolgy with some scrap PVC pipe this evening...

1. Mark it. (using the vice and scrap wood as a support.)
2. score the line all the way around with the hacksaw until there is a well defined groove.
3. Saw all the way through... The blade stays in the groove (the path of least resistance)

Worked a treat.

I am going to try on the alu ports soon... The port are 30 cm and need to be cut to 16cm, so I have loads to practice on...

BTW. The alu ports are from here: http://www.zakspeed.co.za/_Uploads/products/BASS_TUBE_3X12_HA-5412_ALUMINUM_137/Default.aspx

Ps. The original Troevs design is here: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SEAS_CA18RNX.htm

My only departures from the design are the 5° rear tilt and the panel thickness's (my panels are slightly thicker with the final baffle being 4mm wider - not too much of a variance - I think  )

[alternativeroute]

Minor update...

Added some timber to the bottom so that I can secure some inserts for the plinth to bolt onto....

The crossover also screws to the base...


Seas Maya Base by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Base Routered for Crossover Board by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Base Measurements by arclients, on Flickr

[alternativeroute]

Thanks for all the port cutting advise. 

So in the end I made a jig... Worked quite well...


Seas Maya  Port Cutting Jig Angle 1 by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Port Cutting Jig Angle 2 by arclients, on Flickr


Port Cutting Jig Angle 3 by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Port Cutting Jig Action by arclients, on Flickr


Seas Maya Port Cutting Jig Result by arclients, on Flickr

Next to epoxy them in... any advise? I bought one of those packs that look like a double injection. Is that enough? Will it be strong enough?

BTW. I used JimGore's method to cut in the end. Scoring and then sawing bent the pipe in the last stretch... So it was scoring all the way through.

[Stefan]

Very neat wood working. And a quite an  elaborate jig there too.