Veneer. easy fix or migraine waiting to happen?

[dotVIBE]

So,

I've been banging away doing a little restoration work on some antique speakers. This weekend I finally got to stripping and sanding down the cabinets. Problem is, as soon as the varnish went I saw just how damaged the cabs were, and I'm afraid I was slightly overzealous with the sanding. Now i've got a few spots where the veneer is a bit thin. It doesn't look too bad, but i'm wondering whether I shouldn't try to re-veneer these big old bastards anyway.

So, how much of a mission is this anyway? I think I've already spent rather more on these speakers than they are worth, but I have no idea what DIY veneering costs, so I might as well find out.

Or should I just save myself the headache and keep well clear?

[Stefan]

VeneerConcepts. Costs about R80-90/sqm depending on wood type. Contact Adhesive and and extra hand to help you lay it down without causing airpockets.

[Shonver]

Search the forum for previous discussions on veneering.

[Byrd]

More like a steel spike in the head waiting to happen. It isn't easy and on an uneven substrate even more so i think.

[dotVIBE]

a huge big negative on the veneer idea then.  pity.

[Shonver]

Hey! Don't give up so easily! I have in the past jigged my router to level the surface of a box face. Did you do the search?

[Stefan]

No, not at all.
It's fairly easy. Just apply contact adhesive to both surfaces with a thin metal plate and wait for it to 'dry' a bit. Then get someone to help you apply the sheets, working from the centre outwards, rubbing it with a cloth. Lots of rubbing. Cut of excess edges with sharp knife downwards. Then use 120 paper and sand off(also in downward motion as perpendicular as possible) the rest.

If you make a f-up, somewhere, you can always cut out triangles along the grain and insert new pieces. Similar to these old furniture with little flowers etc of different wood veneers.  If you still have air pockets, cut a slit along the grain and add glue in it.

The edges are the most difficult, and time consuming part.

Hope that's encouraging enough.

[GearSlave]

Geesh, I've always hated the contact adhesive method. I've done my first set of speakers with these and after 3 years there's some delamination. There are others that have brilliant results, so I'm probably the retard. Point is, I've had better results using the PVA Iron on method and it worked brilliant first time for me.

[dotVIBE]

ah.

well that' not too bad then, I suppose. Worth a shot I guess. And If I completely stuff it up, well, then, errr....

then i'll make a different plan.

[alternativeroute]

3 years there's some delamination

          dont say that. I just finished a project using the contact adhesive method... argh......


BTW... I sanded through the veneer in two spots... small spots so I never fixed it... Now they look at me and tease me (those two spots   )...

[Stefan]

Hey Gert, what's this PVA you're talking about? Haven't heard of it.

[Gerhard]

I sanded through the veneer in two spots...

Don't you just hate it when that happens!

[GearSlave]

Hey Gert, what's this PVA you're talking about? Haven't heard of it.

The idea is to apply a thin layer of PVA to both the veneer and the substrate. Once these have about dried, you bring the two parts together and heat up the veneer surface with an iron. This melts the glue again and forms a strong bond between the two. I think it's known as the 'Iron on" method. I prefer this method, as it's possible to arrange the veneer nicely onto the substrate without fear of the veneer sticking to the substrate when you don't want it to.

[dotVIBE]

Cool beans.

Gert, do you use a specific brand PVA?

[GearSlave]

I've used the vanilla Alcolin Cold Glue, simply as it's available everywhere. I doubt it would make much of a difference actually, but I didn't see the need to experiment with anything else.