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Author Topic: Ho to revive powder-coat?  (Read 152 times)
ghostinthemachine
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« on: July 30, 2010, 11:13:24 am »

How can scruffy powder-coat be revived?

This old Steinhart I acquired needs some cosmetic attention. How can the pc be revived or how does one strip it off to apply plain 'ol enamel?

GITM
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« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2010, 12:11:15 pm »

You can coat another powder coat on top with little or no preperation afaik.
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ghostinthemachine
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« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2010, 02:38:22 pm »

You can coat another powder coat on top with little or no preperation afaik.

Wish I could have a new chassis made. Not at all fond of this odd chassis Mr Steinhart used... and the color scheme... urgh!
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gbyleveldt
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« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2010, 02:40:13 pm »

Just have the powdercoating re-done. I believe they sandblast all pieces before applying the coat as a rule.
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LAV
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« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2010, 03:06:22 pm »

I'm with Gert. Also, powdercoating cost is usually very reasonable.
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mafioso
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« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2010, 07:05:26 pm »

You can coat another powder coat on top with little or no preperation afaik.

You may be able to but if there are chip marks or deepish scratches, these will show through a new powdercoat.

Firms doing powder coating usually have inhouse sandblasting but I'm not sure if your can strip the chassis completely bare?

I have a longstanding similar problem with my Stereo 20. I can strip it and re-assemble but what to do with the white legends and logo? Schalk once give some pointers and I'll have to look and see what he advised...

mafioso
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« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2010, 07:25:57 pm »

Yes, my experience is with equipment racks. Standard colour is grey, they just used to coat a black layer on top of it.
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ghostinthemachine
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« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2010, 09:34:00 am »

I have a longstanding similar problem with my Stereo 20. I can strip it and re-assemble but what to do with the white legends and logo? Schalk once give some pointers and I'll have to look and see what he advised...

mafioso

You are good with graphics... make exact digital copies of the decals and have some small silk-screens made. Re-coat the chassis and apply new decals using the silk-screen.
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gbyleveldt
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« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2010, 10:19:21 am »

You are good with graphics... make exact digital copies of the decals and have some small silk-screens made. Re-coat the chassis and apply new decals using the silk-screen.

I've often wondered what's involved in doing this small scale. Last time I checked, it was still rather pricey. Can you give some more info for doing this on the cheap? I've got a CEC I want to re-powdercoat, but I'm afraid I'll lose the decals.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2010, 10:21:41 am by gbyleveldt » Logged

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mafioso
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« Reply #9 on: August 03, 2010, 12:08:16 pm »

You are good with graphics... make exact digital copies of the decals and have some small silk-screens made. Re-coat the chassis and apply new decals using the silk-screen.
I actually owned a full function advertising design studio for 12 years or so. I got so gatvol of waiting for printers, typesetters etc that I bought all my own equipment - mostly for litho. I in fact still have a darkroom and light table here where I am typing but my process camera was given away for free to Hofmeyr & Mills, auctioneers. Bought brand new and got nothing for it as it was 'no longer used in the printing/repro trade'. Unfortunately, I got out just before comnputers were introduced in that kind of biz.

So, anyway, ffwd a couple of years. I wanted to silkscreen logos on needles so I made firstclass art (pos on clear film), just black with no halftones. I get p#ssed all over again as I write this. I went to a firm somewhere in Observatory and got buggered-around for many weeks as the assh0les couldn't or didn't want to understand that I wanted to silkscreen myself.

I made an alu frame for the screen, as well as a jig to hold 10 carts at a time. After 6 weeks waiting and badgering, I heard they 'lost' my screen frame and jig. Eventually after many more weeks, I took the job to Rodney who had a much better and much more classy solution - hey Rodney Grin

With the Leak, things are going to be a bit more complicated. The Leak logo is available anywhere in many places and the rest is just leters and digits as this type for the valves.

mafioso
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ghostinthemachine
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« Reply #10 on: August 03, 2010, 12:15:56 pm »


I made an alu frame for the screen, as well as a jig to hold 10 carts at a time. After 6 weeks waiting and badgering, I heard they 'lost' my screen frame and jig. Eventually after many more weeks, I took the job to Rodney who had a much better and much more classy solution - hey Rodney Grin

With the Leak, things are going to be a bit more complicated. The Leak logo is available anywhere in many places and the rest is just leters and digits as this type for the valves.

mafioso

Now here is a plan for you... get a can of Positiv Resist and make your own silk screen. Lay out the decals and have some photo-tools printed on film. Develop the screens yourself. Come-on Andre! You are a DIY master!  Smiley  Wink
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The ghost in the machine is all I have been...
To control the way electrons flow in an audio circuit is one thing, but to teach them how to dance and sing is the real challenge... Martin Kantola
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