Garrard 301 Plinth Build...

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So I did the last coat and have settled that i am going to have to sand and polish the finish up more than I wanted to... I still had insect problems and will definitely try something like this for my next spray jobs:



A little netting to keep the noo-noos out... Should also be good on more than ideal windy days...

I have done a little experimenting and the winning formula to getting a nice finish in my case has been the following steps...

• Let the finish cure for two days - the more days the better and easier polishing will be... (that is probably the hardest step)
• Rough wet sand with 800/1000 water paper
• Thoughrally wash and dry the piece.. (sounds unnecessary at this point but it helps to show up the spots that need more attention before you move to the next step)
• Smooth sand with 2000 water paper
• Thoughrally wash and dry the piece..
• Compounding paste with the buffing machine (carefully does it - too eager and the finish overheats        )
• Thoughrally wash and dry the piece.. This has to be done with the greatest of care as any left over compounding cream will scratch the surface with the greatest of ease... So its a very wet wash... Then carefull inspection before I dry...
• Polishing glaze with the buffer and a new/different bonnet (again carefully does it - too eager and the finish overheats... back to step one if that happens)
• A final hand polish with an all purpose car polish (metallic friendly)

The only 'fly-in-the-ointment' so far has been that no matter how pedantic I am with changing cloths and being super clean with my work area. I still get the odd light scratches. They are only visible from an acute angle but they are there none the less. Any suggestions?

[JimGore]

Hi JQ,

The light scratches you get is most probably because you made too big jumps in the grits, and also because the paint has not completely cured.  You should leave it at least 6 weeks before attempting to sand or polish.

I would recommend the following sequence:
1.  800 grit paper
2.  1200 grit paper
3.  1500 grit paper
4.  2000 grit paper
5.  4000 grit compound
6.  8000 grit compound
7.  11000 grit compound
8.  scratch removal polish
9.  carnuba wax

The idea behind the sequence is this:  Each consecutively higher grit of sandpaper must sand out the scratches made by the previous coarser grit completely.  If you don't sand the 1200 grit scratches out with the 1500 grit, then those 1200 grit scratches remain behind and show up later when you start achieving a gloss level again.  This is the reason why you need a thick enough layer of paint, because there is quite alot of sanding to be done.

Ian.

[ByronH]

6 weeks? *groan* Waiting for paint/clear to dry is a killer...

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6 weeks

arghhhhhh 

I was hopping that the cutting creme would go through all the grits as it breaks down when you buff...

you need a thick enough layer of paint

That i have... I have used 2l of clear coat on a .75 square metre piece... It is thick. I guestimate about 1mm...

I noticed this morning that there are some deep crevices that still have not 'filled'...

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OK - so it has been a while since I last updated... All sorts of things have been keeping me away from this project....

The clear-coating is done. Not exactly to the standard I would have aspired to but considering this is a first time I am going to cut myself some slack and not stress over it...

Added some of the fixings...



Fitting everything to make sure it is right...


The to do list is still big...

• Add the feet
• Do the wiring
• Finish the tonearm
• Make a dustcover of sorts...
• etc....

[Family_Dog]

Looking very snazzy! Great job, you will soon have it a-spinning choons. 


-F_D

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Have you ever said to yourself that you 'just quickly wanna do something'... Pffff     

Quickly my @ss!!!

This morning after  preparing the feet I thought I could quickly fix on the feet, wire her up, align the cartridge and play some tunes... Ya ya. Whatever.... 6 hours later I had the first tunes playing... 

The feet came out quite well. I used 'spikes' that I got from Yebo... http://www.fort777.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_48_53_56&products_id=215
Not cheap but they are adjustable and that is what I need to level the turntable... Out the box the Yebo spikes get fixed on with some double sided weather strip type pads... I wanted to screw them in so that it will never come apart... When I mounted the tonearm base I used 'mirror screws' as I wanted the screw heads to be hidden for aesthetic reason... With the mirror screws came some rubber buffers (to protect mirrors)... Turns out they they were useful for adding to my brass feet as isolation... something like this:

How I drilled them...


Attached to the plinth...


With the cones screwed on...


Supporting the plinth...


All connected and spinning a tune


I am using another 3012 arm that I have until I finish the tonearm destined for this table... But i think that will be another thread altogether...

2mBlue doing the reading...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/4846473668_caa0cec1b9.jpg

BTW. the whole lot is rather heavy... weighs in at 25Kg...

[mafioso]

Real purty, ar. Now if this pic doesn't set the anaklogue thing alight with a few more converts, I don't know

Iteresting those Yebo spikes. I also bought a pair from them when they were known as Maplin. Also cost a pretty penny then butthe mounting stud/threaded bar wasn't hollow and didn't have that extra lock ring.

I have since copied a pair in stainless, knurles 'n all as the gold plate didn't match the silver legs on the blue acrylic one.

Interesting too, the weight of yours. The blue one weighs exactly 27kg but there are a few extra secrets downstairs...

Compliments & respect, Sir

mafioso

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Compliments & respect, Sir

Thanks for compliments Mafioso...

Do you have any ideas for some or other kind of strobe light? I noticed on yours you had a sort of movable type rig with a small lamp... Is that just a small incandescent bulb you have in there? Are those type of lamp fittings and globes readily available?

What I have noticed using a bedside lamp is that in peak hours (6 to 9pm) I need to move the speed +2 increments and late at night -1 from the centre... does that sound right in your experience?

I am also following this thread quite closely: http://www.avforums.co.za/index.php/topic,5386.msg66793.html#msg66793

SeanS asks a pertinent question:

I guess I'm trying to understand what noises & vibrations to hear from a motor that size.. should I expect it to be 100% quiet.

Good question...      

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Dustcover made. Turntable sold. Enjoy iMark!!!

I have had loads of enjoyment out of this over-engineered piece of pre-communist Britain. Alas time to move onto my other 'idler' projects... A L75 and a TD124...




Garrard 301 Plinth build - Dustcover made... by arclients, on Flickr

[iMark]

Thanks Jaques, Looking good!! Looking forward to this one...

[Family_Dog]

There is nothing quite so sexy as a 301 with SME arm on a decent plinth! Job well done!

Mark, you *will* have lots of joy out of this combo!


-F_D

[iMark]

There is nothing quite so sexy as a 301 with SME arm on a decent plinth! Job well done!

Mark, you *will* have lots of joy out of this combo!


-F_D

Thanks F_D  I have read 301/3012/103 is a magic combo!