Advice needed on new room

[xrapidx]

Here's what costs R13,000: (this is according to quotation received)

Build 5.2 m2 walls and plaster
Install 3 plug points and one audio point
Move 1 light point
Remove some kitchen cupboards and reinstall after building process
Paint in and outside of new build walls
Lay down 6 m2 of tiling supplied by owner

Any advice?

[xrapidx]

Quick question - been chatting to the builder - and he says he doesn't need to cut into the old wall to 'weave/interlace/interweave' it with the new wall - he says because its a double brick wall the weight it more than enough to hold it in place? Does that sound right?  

[windshear]

I would make sure they interleave it at a few points. Purely from future settling cracks. A straight line may show up quicker due to not being linked to existing structure, different mix strengths, floor loading, temperature effects, different plaster sand mix, etc. Rather safe than sorry, but i love overkill.

[egd]

Quick question - been chatting to the builder - and he says he doesn't need to cut into the old wall to 'weave/interlace/interweave' it with the new wall - he says because its a double brick wall the weight it more than enough to hold it in place? Does that sound right?  

Sounds like you need a different builder, this one's going to leave you with all the problems minus your cash and he won't be coming back to fix anything.  If you're in JHB area I could recommend one to you - he's busy wrapping up at my place and I'd use him again.

[GearSlave]

Quick question - been chatting to the builder - and he says he doesn't need to cut into the old wall to 'weave/interlace/interweave' it with the new wall - he says because its a double brick wall the weight it more than enough to hold it in place? Does that sound right?  

I call BS. Just spoke to my builder mate and he said you allways interleave otherwise you end up with cracks down the line.

[xrapidx]

I would make sure they interleave it at a few points. Purely from future settling cracks. A straight line may show up quicker due to not being linked to existing structure, different mix strengths, floor loading, temperature effects, different plaster sand mix, etc. Rather safe than sorry, but i love overkill.

Yeh - thats what I was thinking...

Sounds like you need a different builder, this one's going to leave you with all the problems minus your cash and he won't be coming back to fix anything.  If you're in JHB area I could recommend one to you - he's busy wrapping up at my place and I'd use him again.

In Cape Town - but also thinking a new builder might be in order

I call BS. Just spoke to my builder mate and he said you allways interleave otherwise you end up with cracks down the line.

Thanks - I also think so - been trying to find information on the internet, not having much success... Apparently they plan on using some sort of wiring in-between the layers of bricks.

How difficult is it to repair a wall if they do it this way, and cracks start forming?

[egd]

How difficult is it to repair a wall if they do it this way, and cracks start forming?

It'll always crack if its not tied in, every time there's a shift in temperature etc that causes contraction/expansion you'll be looking at the crack again and no amount of polyfiller / paint will resolve it.   The brickwork itself should have brickforce every four or so courses.  Wire mesh can be added in at the join prior to plastering.  It provides some protection against cracking, but is by no means a guarantee that it won't crack.  Doing it right is ALWAYS less expensive when it comes to building.

[xrapidx]

*sigh* A bit annoying.... I'm out at a client - and can't get hold of the girlfriend or builder now... I want to stop them before they start.

[xrapidx]

FFS - FINALLY  spoke to him... the wall is already up. Great.

He said he doesn't see any problem with the way he did it - and if anything goes wrong he'll come back and repair it for free.

The only recourse I have on this is that its a guy that a friend of mine often uses in his construction company (they do commercial building) - so if things do go south, he'll loose a lot of business.

[xrapidx]

I had another chat with him - expressing my concerns again - and obviously my concerns were confirmed over here.

He reminded me that when we first met I told him if he does a decent job, I said I'd use him for my major renovations next year January... which were quoted at anything between R200,000 and R300,000 - so if this is a stuff up - he's lost out on quite a bit of income by taking a short cut, and when they do those renovations, I'll get them to fix this wall should it be cracking.

[Rodney_gold]

As far as I can see - you would have a fairly sturdy lintel above the opening you are bricking up , the wall you are building is not load bearing either and is merely a cosmetic piece , I can't see why it should crack at the joins if the plasterwork/bricklaying  is good.

[xrapidx]

As far as I can see - you would have a fairly sturdy lintel above the opening you are bricking up , the wall you are building is not load bearing either and is merely a cosmetic piece , I can't see why it should crack at the joins if the plasterwork/bricklaying  is good.

Thanks - really hoping so - this has not been my year. Girlfriend sent me an MMS - it doesn't look bad - although the last three top rows of bricks seem to be a bit roughly done.

They're coming back tomorrow to finish up - I'm going to again stress the importance of how big a pain in the arse I'll be come if this is not done properly.

[Rodney_gold]

Check the plaster work prior to painting - shine a torch sort of parallel to the wall and look for dents , gouges and rough spots , pay attention to where the old wall joins the new , a line or visible joint will show. Kinda like sighting along the side panels of a car to see they straight and not riffled or dinged. Dont expect perfection but dont accept rubbish
Whar renovations are you doing for 2-300k?

[Mike M]

I have not read the whole thread, but if I understand it correctly, the new brickwork is butt jointed to the old (not bonded). What I would suggest is that they rule a joint in the plaster along the the joint of the old and new brickwork. You will get some differential movement and by ruling the joint in the plaster one controls the cracking. When plastering over the joint the plaster will more than likely crack in an uncontrolled manner.

Feel free to call me if you feel that the above is useful. I do have some professional experience in this regard.

Regards
M

[xrapidx]

Check the plaster work prior to painting - shine a torch sort of parallel to the wall and look for dents , gouges and rough spots , pay attention to where the old wall joins the new , a line or visible joint will show. Kinda like sighting along the side panels of a car to see they straight and not riffled or dinged. Dont expect perfection but dont accept rubbish
Whar renovations are you doing for 2-300k?

Thanks - will do.

RE: Renovations - quite a bit.
We're redoing the entire kitchen - the current one is a really cheaply put together kitchen - something you'd expect in an RDP house   The girlfriend and I love cooking, her more so, so we want a decent kitchen.

Then we have a little open garage next to the houser that was built to house two jetski's, to small for a car, it also houses the pool pump, I need to move the pool pump, and then I want to turn the garage into an outside braai area and bar, its right next to the pool - so perfect place.

We also want to re-tile the house with decent tiling.

Then the big part, we have a flat roof - and I want to go up a level above our bedroom, so need to prepare for that - adding a 3rd bedroom with a bit of a view. The house is already big, 315m2 - but we'll probably be here for 10 odd years - and I'm sure by that time I'd probably have a kid (else my mom is going to kill me).

I have not read the whole thread, but if I understand it correctly, the new brickwork is butt jointed to the old (not bonded). What I would suggest is that they rule a joint in the plaster along the the joint of the old and new brickwork. You will get some differential movement and by ruling the joint in the plaster one controls the cracking. When plastering over the joint the plaster will more than likely crack in an uncontrolled manner.

Feel free to call me if you feel that the above is useful. I do have some professional experience in this regard.

Regards
M

Appreciated - I'll discuss it with him this morning. I'm new to owning a house, and building - and I'm pretty sure thats when these guys take advantage of you, one of life's more expensive lessons I guess.