Author Topic: Pioneeer TS-W303F Sub  (Read 727 times)

Abu

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 531
Re: Pioneeer TS-W303F Sub
« Reply #30 on: February 09, 2012, 10:33:55 am »
Awesome.. Thank you SO MUCH tangmonster. Feel I'm not stumbling in the dark any more.

I will go do some more research and read up on rudi's kidnap.

tangmonster

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 823
Re: Pioneeer TS-W303F Sub
« Reply #31 on: February 09, 2012, 10:39:00 am »
I used 2 of these in bridge mode to get 300W into 4ohms. (6 x lm3886's in total)

After blowing a few lm3886's the amp was stable as my subwoofer amp for around 2 years , doing duty every single day.

They are easy to mount, and using 3 lm3886's for 100W will mean you are not overworking them at all.

It is just important to get the feedback resistors the same. and set the output DC.
otherwise it is VERY easy to assemble the rest. you just need to add toroidal and bridge. You can think about adding another 4700 - 10000uf per voltage rail after the bridge. :)


good luck

Crafty

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,177
Re: Pioneeer TS-W303F Sub
« Reply #32 on: February 09, 2012, 10:51:25 am »
Sorry for hijacking this thread...
TangMonster... Do you by any chance have a circuit I can simply connect to the power amp's output to protect the speakers?
This talk of 30v DC directly into speakers now has me paranoid.
My stereo amp will be used on speakers that is not exactly high end- but also not cheap either. And with their 95db sensitivity, might be popped very easily, should things go wrong!

Location: Centurion (Gauteng)

Abu

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 531
Re: Pioneeer TS-W303F Sub
« Reply #33 on: February 09, 2012, 11:51:14 am »
After blowing a few lm3886's

Was during construction or in operation?  :o

tangmonster

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 823
Re: Pioneeer TS-W303F Sub
« Reply #34 on: February 09, 2012, 12:14:41 pm »
they blew during operation.

Still not sure how the drivers survived it got full 35Vdc for at least 5 seconds before I could leap across 2 rooms to cut power.

Actually ,it was switched in some way ,possibly by the working chips. basically was 35V dc switched on and off around 50 times per second.
Twee koek blikke het afgeval van die rakke af in die kombuis buiten die twee 12"ers wat nog MEER geraas het. M@3RSE geraas!

anyhoo

crafty , for a cheap and easy dc protect also buy this:

http://global.ebay.com/15A-Current-relay-Speaker-protection-board-Kit-for-DIY/230681547376/item

If you decide to rather go with rudi's amp his got speaker protect built in on the power supply board.

Abu

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 531
Re: Pioneeer TS-W303F Sub
« Reply #35 on: February 09, 2012, 10:05:29 pm »
Cool.. I've given it a good looksy and I think I'm going to go with the chipamp from ebay (cost beats performance a this stage of the game) :  http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM3886-3-159W-Parallel-Mono-Channel-Amplifier-Board-/120705868646?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1aa16366

and then do my own PSU with:

225VA Toroid : http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/toroid-transformers/2238178/
the caps you mentioned : http://www.mantech.co.za/ProductInfo.aspx?Item=72M3925
and the bridge rectifier : http://www.mantech.co.za/ProductInfo.aspx?Item=72M0446
and  then possibly the bunch of resistors Tang mentioned to get the closest match for R2 & R3.

From what I can see the complete cost for amp and PSU should be about a grand. I can stomach that seeing as this is my 1st build and I'm not wanting to get suuuper base. I just want some base. The next build (if there is one) can be the big one  ::)

Thanks for all your help gents!