Couple of questions

[Abu]

Hi all

I'm still doing the planning/research for my intended build over December.  I'm just curious to find out a few things....

1. Which method you guys prefer for doing your driver holes.

Cutting the bigger diameter recess line first, then follwed by the smaller circle for the driver to fit through
or
Cutting the smaller circle first followed by a rabbeting bit to make the bigger recess line

2. Veneer....  where to get it in JHB (or pta) in small sizes (not 3m x 2m sheets)

3. Veneer 1st and then route or the other way 'round ?


Thanks!

[JimGore]

Cutting the bigger diameter recess line first, then follwed by the smaller circle for the driver to fit through
or
Cutting the smaller circle first followed by a rabbeting bit to make the bigger recess line

Cut the recess first, then after that make the hole for the driver. 
If you do it the other way around we assume you have a rabbit bit / bearing size combination that will give you the exact recess width required.

Veneer....  where to get it in JHB (or pta) in small sizes (not 3m x 2m sheets)

Most if not all the veneer places will be closed over the holiday season, so you are going to have a hard time.  I have some Maple, Recon Walnut, and Crown Mahogany veneer which I can help you with at the price I paid per sq m if that's one of the colours you are after.

Veneer 1st and then route or the other way 'round ?

Easiest is to veneer first, then route.  If you route first then veneer, the veneer often cracks over the opening.  What makes it worse is that the crack tends to run a bit.

Hope that helps?

Ian.

[Atjan]

I've only ever built one set of speakers and also struggled with these questions...and more. This is what I did and why (worked out reasonably well):
- I cut the recess first. The 'flange' of each speaker is different and I don't have a stockpile of bits. Also, I think its a bit safer when routering on veneered mdf. I did however try the depth of the first cut out on the smaller circle first to make sure there's no splintering before starting to cut the larger circle.
- I only found 2 places. The one where I got mine is on Main Reef Rd near the Toyota garage. Can't remeber the name. The other is Primrose Veneer and Board. But they do the veneering. You can bring your pre-cut wood and they stick on. Very thin (0.6) though and only one direction so you have to be careful about sanding through, which happens real easily. Cirr on the forum knows of some in Pretoria. Be ware though, doing your own veneering is not THAT easy. Also the best glue to use (Alcolin Waterproof polyurethane) is more expensive than the work and the veneer at Primrose V&B....
- I did the veneer first. JimGore showed me how the veneer can pull and tear if you put it over a hole. Yes, you can probably cut a hole in the veneer before you stick. Its not that easy to hold it in place on a layer of wet glue though... I didn't want to take the chance though.
Some more free and unsolicited advice : Don't ever do anything when you're in a rush. The mistakes and bugger ups I made was all when I was running late on my own target and I had to go to supper or something. Rather put it down and continue tomorrow. Fixing a blotch takes much longer than just leaving it for a time when you're not in a hurry.
Enjoy your build!  It's not work, you're doing this for your own enjoyment.

EDIT: Or in other words: What Ian said.

[Steerpike]

I'm about to do something speakerwise: my potential plan is NOT to rout the baffle, but to mount the driver proud on the surface: then an extra sheet of thin plywood, with holes cut to the size of the driver's frame plus 1 or 2mm clearance, glued on top of the baffle. The plywood has a pretty finish, so no veneer is required. And you can cut a very neat hole with tidy edges in plywood.

[Shonver]

Use a router and circle-cutting jig (google Jasper jig). Cut driver recess first,  through-hole last, but don't cut all the way through with the router; leave about 0.3mm, else you lose your centre point before completing the circle. Finish the through hole with a craft knife and/or rabbetting bit.

+1 for veneer first.

[Abu]

Awesome.. thanks for the advice gents.

Ian... Thanks, might take you up on that offer

[Cirr]

If you have not done veneer,do a small project first,
Steerpikes way will definitely work,probably 3mm or 6mm,very clever way, less risk.

You can also pay someone to veneer it with veneerbag,
 I know someone in PTA who does it for a living-
Wildervanck Furniture ,Google them,the owner even stayed in Britain for a couple of years to learn this art.
Their spray work also borders on art. But on the other side, they have a 3mx3m booth with filters and watertraps.

DIY is the most rewarding empowerment, and the skills you pick up along the way becomes very addictive.

[Shonver]

Finish the through hole with a craft knife and/or rabbetting bit.

Oops! I mean flush trim bit. But rather not, as most of the available ones have the roller on the wrong position if your baffle is not loose (i.e., you are then not able to reverse the board to use this bit correctly).

[Abu]

Hmmm... plywood... maybe I should try that for my 1st build.

Do the normal wood places like timbercity stock this?

[Cirr]

The cheapest by far is commercial ply @ Chamberlains,a nice looking meranti type ply from South America(you read on the ply sometimes )
3mm @ R110-00, 6mm @ R220-00     fullsheet (1,22m x 2,44m) Cutting R2-50 p/cut.
3mm  bendable.

Don`t use any pine ply,lots of sanding,fixing,etc.

[bbe22]

If you go with pre veneered ply of chipboard just be aware that the ply is on the thin side, so sand carefully..............

[Abu]

Thought of another question.

I'm reading a lot about cabinet shapes for the fronts and how square ones are causing some anomalies.. so is the recommendation to rather go curved?

OK.. I lied.. 2 questions
If the speakers (2-way) are going to be up against a wall (or very close to it), I would need to make them front ported ... right?

[Atjan]

I'm about to do something speakerwise: my potential plan is NOT to rout the baffle, but to mount the driver proud on the surface: then an extra sheet of thin plywood, with holes cut to the size of the driver's frame plus 1 or 2mm clearance, glued on top of the baffle. The plywood has a pretty finish, so no veneer is required. And you can cut a very neat hole with tidy edges in plywood.

You're still cutting the holes in the ply with a router though?

[Abu]

Thought of another question.

Bump.. anyone?

Square vs curved speakers for cabinets to produce the best sound quality?

Front ported for close to wall installations?

[chipwelder]

Close to a wall - how close is close? go for sealed as the proximity to the wall will exaggerate midbass. Can also tune the BR very low... but yes, if you go ported go for the ports front or even bottom facing.

Yes the shape makes a difference, but it can be accomodated for, in the filter design. and what's in the filter can be accomodated for in the box, so we on a huge iterative process here, unless you get a helping hand from someone who's dunnit often. Square is often worse, rectangular is often better curved often has a rectangular baffle in any case and is a bit harder to do in practice. So pick your problem an dlive with it, rectangular is a good compromise